Fayence to Saintë-Raphael

This was our last proper cycling day as we now plan to take the train to Nice in the morning and spend a week there exploring. The day was overcast but not raining and so we made good progress until we reached the outskirts of Frejus. Like any major town the roads were busy and we had to stop many times to check the route and try to avoid traffic. None of us took any photos today. We were heads down cycling uphill through the forests and going too fast downhill to stop, especially as the roads were winding with metal barriers at the side. It seems quite strange now to be in a busy seaside resort after all our travels in the French countryside. We may get a chance to cycle out for some day trips in Nice and will also need to get rid of our bikes before we set off back to Australia. Ideally we will try and sell them otherwise we plan to give them away to a charity or similar.

Flayosc to Fayence

It was forecast to rain today with bad weather for the next few days (wrong!) so we planned a short day to Fayence with the intention of heading to the coast the following day. The only placed we passed through was Draguignan which was a fairly busy centre in this district. Like some of the other places in this region it appears to have seen better days and our first impression was not good as we passed an old prison.

The roads were not busy though and we had an uneventful but fairly scenic ride through the forests to Fayence. Our hotel was at the base of this hilltop town so at least we did not have to cycle uphill again at the end of the day. We did have to walk though and it was super steep. The views over the countryside were good though and the day had passed without the rain that had been forecast.

Pontevès to Flayosc

Pontevès is situated north west of Barjols and we passed through this town on our way out. It is pretty run down and looks like it has seen better days.

 The town seems to have been built around a huge cliff and there are lots of old factory like buildings by the riverside. We looked this up later and found that it was once a centre for tanning. After leaving Barjols we headed on a scenic, non-direct route to Flayosc, passing through Chateauverte, Correns, Contignac, Entrecasteau and Lorgues. The first part of the route was through forest and along a river valley by some cliffs. It was one of the most scenic routes we have been on. The river was crystal clear, the roads were quiet and the cliffs provided a dramatic backdrop. 

Some climbers were ascending one of the rocks as we passed. 

We planned to stay a while in Contignac but the place was so crowded you could not move. It was market day but most people seemed to be eating and drinking at the cafés by the square. 

Entrecasteau seemed like a good place to stop for a rest and we had some drinks n a bar across from the chateau.

As we passed through Lorgues a circus was setting up and we thought we would soon be at our accommodation in Flayosc as there was only another seven km to go. Unfortunately it was all uphill and very steep for the last few km. We were very tired by the time we finally checked in, but had time to go and have some drinks in a bar before dinner. There were only a few restaurants in town and so they became very crowded. We had our starter and main courses served in a reasonable time but the desert course took over an hour.

Aix en Provence to Pontevès

It was forecast to rain today with potential storms, but we managed to miss it all. The rain fell in Aix as we awoke but had cleared by the time we left. We cycled below Mont Saint Victoire along the Route de Cezanne. 

It was a great, although hilly, ride and, as it was Monday, there were few cars on the road. We had the mountain beside us for quite a while and could hardly believe we were on the top of it yesterday.

The grape harvest has now started and as we passed through one village they were offloading the grapes. We could smell the yeasty aroma as we cycled past.

 We kept to very minor roads until we had to join the DN7 into St. Maximin la Sainte Baume where we had an uncomfortable last few km into town along a narrow cycle strip with huge lorries and fast cars whizing by. The sky in the north was looking very black and we could see it raining in the distance. As we turned north towards Barjols the sky darkened even more and we could see lightening flashes and heard it thunder. Fortunately it passed from east to west and by the time we reached our chambre d'hôte in Pontevès it had gone. The last stretch of the cycle was beautiful as we passed through forest with limestone outcrops. It also had hills and hairpin bends but we are used to them by now. We had time to look around Pontevès before dinner and it had an authentic, not too touristy, hilltop town with the remains of an old castle. The views were pretty good and we could see over the vineyards to the mountains in the distance.

There is still plenty of cloud about but the focast for tomorrow is sunny.

Apt to Manosque and Manosque to Aix en Provence

I am writing this a few days after the event. We did not take too many photos during these trips as the days were very hot and the scenery was not that dramatic. Even so, the cycle from Apt to Manosque was enjoyable but hard work. We headed out of the town on a voie verte, which has been constructed along an old railway track. It made for easy cycling and we had the Liberon mountain range on our right to look at along the way. It stopped short of Cereste and then a cycle route took us up hill and down dale through pumpkin fields and vineyards before we finally got into the town. It added an extra 5km to the route down the main road but the roads were quiet and we enjoyed the ride.

 The way ahead took us up and over the Luberon with a long climb before dropping steeply into Manosque. Some of the views were marvellous but we didn't stop much to take photos as the roads were narrow and there were not many safe places. We ate our lunch under the shade of a large tree and watched the butterflies in a field of clover.

The next day was lovely at the start as we cycled through the countryside towards Pertuis but got increasingly hotter and busier. There was a strange old chateau along the way that offered a good view of the surrounds but we did not feel like looking around the museum of faence.

There is only one river crossing and we nearly got wiped off the road at a roundabout. The driving has got worse as we have gone south and people seem more impatient. We took a quiet road into Aix and were happy to arrive in one piece. 

We stayed in Aix for three nights and so had a couple of days to explore the city. It seems to be centre for eating, drinking and shopping. Fortunately there were some good art exhibitions on at the time so we visited them along with having a few wines and beers in cafés ourselves.

 Yesterday we took a bus out to the Barrage du Bimont at the base of Mont Saint Victoire and climbed the mountain. It was a clear day but the way was very rocky and we wondered how this would affect our cycling the day after.

L'isle sur Sorge to Apt

As the day was forecast to be hot again we left L'isle sur Sorge before 9am and cycled the short distance to Fontane de Vaucluse where there is a huge cliff with a water source below it that is incredibly deep. We beat the tour buses and cycled up most the way to the source before pushing our bikes up the last stony and steep section. 

• Vérification de tous les points de serrage,
• Réglage dérailleur et freins,
• Pression pneus.
• 
  

The cafés were just opening as we left and hoarders of tourists were making their way from the coaches. I can imagine that this area would be a wonderful place to visit when the pool has filled and the waterfalls are in full flow. The shallow pools at filled with plants that give a beautiful green glow and you can see the fish facing upstream to feed on whatever comes their way. 

We visited two hilltop towns this afternoon, first Gordes, where we stopped for lunch and ate sandwiches in the main square, and then Rousillon, which involved another long climb in the afternoon sun. 

They were both full of tourists eating ice creams and taking photos from the viewpoints. Several drivers had altercations regarding parking and the heat had clearly got to them. The views were spectacular though, particularly the colours, and we really enjoyed the day. The buildings in Rousillon are all painted in an orangy- red ochre, like the natural cliff faces, and blend into the natural environment.

Avignon to L'isle sur Sorge

We were a little concerned about getting out of Avignon on the main roads but our fears were unfounded as the Route de Lyon and the road to Pernes la Fontaine both had wide and smooth cycle lanes. It was easy riding along the flat. For most of way and the day was overcast early in the morning. As the day wore on the clouds cleared and it became very hot.

 We stayed a while in Pernes, after cycling around the old town and having some drinks at a local cafe, and then took a signposted cycle route to L'isle sur Sorge over the hills to the east. We had not planned this route beforehand and it turned out to be quite hilly and very arduous in the afternoon heat. It was over 30C. We had a few stops for water along the way and then had a long downhill section at the end.

 

This took a toll on our hands as the road was very rough and there were several hairpin bends. We had to brake a lot on the descents as it was unsafe to go any faster. The run into L'ilse sur Sorge was pleasant though as they have built a brand new tree lined cycle path to enter the town. It is not really a 'little Venice' as the tourist office describes it, but it does have a lot of canals and water wheels and is a lovely place to stop and look around the many shops and attractions.

 In the evening we ate by the river and had a lovely meal even though it started to rain, with thunder and lightening ad had been predicted.

Vaison la Romaine to Carpentras

Vaison la Romaine is incredibly rich in Roman culture and we spent most of our 'rest day' walking around the ruins and the museum. There is an amphitheatre, which has been restored, and most of the central part of the old town. 

We left for Vaison la Romaine and took a route through Séguret, Sablet, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes de Venise and then a cycle route that took us along the canal to Carpentras. Along the way we passed many hilltop towns and took detours to see them up close.

 The designated cycle route from Beaumes de Venise was excellent, as it went along tiny, quiet roads through vineyards and up hilltops for views across the plains, where Mont Venteaux was still on the horizon. 

The last part of the route was unexpected though, as it ran along the canal and consisted of a well worn footpath gouged into the grass on either side. 

Our bikes bumped along and we were very uncomfortable. It must have been a VTT route and we would not pick it again.

Carpentras to Avignon

A hot day was forecast again, but fortunately it was cloudy when we left Carpentras. We did not go the direct route to Avignon as the roads looked like they would be busy. Instead we cycled west and then north to Chateaunef du Pape and then further north to the bridge over the Rhone and then down the west bank to cross into Avignon from Villeneuve lez Avignon

 It turned out to be a lovely day after we left the main roads and there was plenty of shade from the trees that lined the route. The villages here are very pretty and many are located on hilltops with old towers and chateau in the centre.  As with our previous trips to wine growing areas the cafés have been replaced by 'caves' offering wine tasting and selling their produce. 

Chateuneuf du Pape seemed to have whole streets lined with these outlets. We bought fruit along the way from local markets and sat with the locals for refreshments as the day started to get very hot. 

As we crossed the road bridge into Avignon we saw the famous old bridge and were surprised that it was a bridge to nowhere, only going part the way across.

 We are staying in the city for a few days visiting art galleries and museums and sampling the local cuisine. Our bikes also need new brakes so we have left them at a shop for repair. The steep descents have taken their toll and we don't want to risk any accidents.

Nyons to Vaison la Romaine

As there was so much to see in Vaison la Romaine we made this a short day, although we travelled by a roundabout route as it was only around 25km in a straight line. It was also forecast to be hot and sunny again. Jilie took a photo of a stature in the main square before we left Nyons as it was quite unusual.

We chose to travel by minor roads out of Nyons but they were very narrow and winding with a white line down the middle for several kilometres. It was not very pleasant as some of the drivers did not leave us much room when overtaking with cars coming the opposite way. Nearly all the drivers here are very considerate but you only need one idiot to have an accident. We rode very defensively and stopped to let vehicles pass if there seemed too little room. We were very glad to leave the road and take a rest and some drinks in the small, but pretty hilltop village of Mirabel-aux-Baronnies where we had good views over the surrounding area including Mont Ventoux in the distance.

After taking a diversion to avoid the direct route to Vaison la Romaine the road became very pleasant with hardly any traffic. We were quite surprised when we came to a road block. The was a Dutch company making a film and they had closed the road temporarily to allow filming. The story is about a rider who was killed on Mont Ventoux and some friends came back years later to make the ride. it will be released later this year.

While we were waiting a couple more cyclists joined us and we chatted to them and the film crew. One of the riders was from Perth, like us, but worked in London and the other was a Belgian woman out for a day ride. The man told us that the same film crew had blocked off the summit road to Mont Ventoux a few days ago around 6km from the summit and some of the riders had to go back.

The day was getting very hot so we stopped off in a bus stop shelter to have lunch looking out to Mont Ventoux.

It was only a short ride from here to the old Roman town and as we cycled along th river it came into view. Our hotel was near the top and the views from our bedroom window are amazing.

Today we spent most of the time visiting the Roman remains which are quite extensive. This is a photo we took the night before of part of them.